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QUALITY

THE THREAD COUNT-MYTH

“Thread count” or thread density is a concept often seen paired together with bed linen. Thread count (TC) signifies the count of threads per inch (2,5 cm) of the fabric. A high TC is said to indicate the best fabric, but since the counting of threads are calculated with various unclear methods, this is not a standard of quality at Geismars.

We choose to focus on other and more measurable indicators of quality:

  1. Quality of fiber (raw material)
  2. Spinning of yarn
  3. Quality of yarn
  4. Thread construction
  5. Fabric processing

1. QUALITY OF FIBER

The quality of a plant fiber such as cotton depends on the length and the fineness of the fiber. The longer the fiber, the stronger and finer threads it will produce. The Egyptian cotton gives the longest cotton fibers, while American cotton results in a medium quality and Indian/Chinese cotton a very low quality. The length of fiber in Egyptian cotton is 30 to 50 mm, while the Asian cotton holds 10 to 20 mm with the American cotton somewhere in the middle. Geismars only use Egyptian cotton for our bed linen, duvet ticking and terry cloth. Our Geismars tablecloths, however, are made from American cotton as tablecloths do not require the same softness to fabric as bed linen and terry. 

2. SPINNING OF YARN

Yarn is a common notion for a string of textile fibers. Natural fibers with a limited length has to be spun together to produce a bolt of yarn. There are two ways to spin the yarn: ring spinning and rotor spinning. When ring spinning, the coils are laid close together in a parallel to form a precision winding, while rotor spinning spins the yarn strings on top of each other. Ring spinning is a far more demanding process, but the end result is an unwavering quality of smooth, even yarn bolts. 
Geismars only use ring spun combed yarn for the highest quality. 

3. QUALITY OF YARN

Yarn numbering systems are based on either length or weight. At length count (Nm), the yarn number is defined by the length of one gram of yarn. The higher the number, the finer the yarn. At weight count (Tex), the yarn number is defined by the weight of 1.000 meters of yarn – and a low number will signify a fine yarn. At Geismars, we use grams / m2 on all our products. This makes it easy for you to test the weight and see for yourself just how soft and light our linen really is. 

4. THREAD CONSTRUCTION

The thread construction signifies how the yarn is made and if the bolts consist of singular or ply strands. Geismars only use single yarns, made from pure Egyptian cotton. The highest thread count per inch (TC) for single yarn is 360. A higher TC only comes from ply yarn that results in a slightly coarser fabric. 
A high thread count is not always an indicator of a great product. 

5. PROCESSING

As soon as the yarn has been woven into fabric, the processing can begin. At first the fabric must go through a cleanse to improve its color absorbency and reduce shrinkage. Next, the “singeing” and “calendaring” takes place. The singeing evens the surface by burning off projecting fibers and uneven knots in the fabric. The calendaring is a combination of heat and pressure to strengthen the fabric and give it a smooth surface with a classic lustre. Linen of a lesser quality is rarely processed, but Geismars linen always go through a processing to ensure a silky-smooth finish. 

There are countless ways to produce a great linen product. But as a rule of thumb, price and quality usually go hand in hand. When you purchase Geismars linen, we guarantee that you make a great investment in one of the finest linen products since 1866. And we continue to strive for perfection.